Friday, August 3, 2012

Day 4 - Toms River, NJ to Franconia Notch, NH

Day 4 dawned bright and shiny. The rain storms that ripped through the area last night had cleaned everything up and left huge puddles to play in. In addition to becoming a source of the oppressive humidity! Uncovering the bikes we could see the seats and saddlebags dotted with water. Indicating how strong the winds were last night, flinging rain under the covers,

Today was going to be the most difficult day of the journey so far. We needed to get up to New Hampshire. It was doable, but ambitious. My major oversight was New York City. I was taking us from New Jersey to New Hampshire in a day. A Monday...through rush hour traffic...near New York City.


View Larger Map
Jack had some alternate suggestions that Oilburner and I researched on the maps last night. And my secret source in Maine also had some ideas. Since the George Washington Bridge is going through some major construction, traffic was going to be bad. Both sources recommended the Tappan Zee Bridge north of the city. This route appealed to me since that is probably the closest I will ever get to taking my bike to the city. (At least until Jack leads a tour to Boulevard East.). However, the sedate tollway up to Albany, NY won out. Our logic was hoping there would be fewer cars and fewer police to impede a speedy jaunt. We experienced empty roads with the New York state tollways five years ago. Just hoping for the same.

On a side note, I will be forced to go back to this area some time. The Village of Sleep Hollow is near the Tappan Zee on the east shore. Sleepy Hollow! Gotta go! Washington Irving is interred there. I need to go exploring. Maybe sit on some inn balcony at midnight, sipping something warm, watching for any nocturnal happenings.

Overall the day was long and completely in eventful. Sweet. We did leave "later" to hopefully miss the large portion of traffic. We went out of our way to scoot west around New York City. New York was where we first encountered frost heaves. Wow! Those are nasty. I do not recommend hitting one of those while performing a shoulder check. Talk about vertigo. Since I forgot to look up Orange County Choppers we discovered 3 miles too late that we had missed it. Those 3 miles equate to 30 miles on the tollway because we would have to ride to the next exit to get off and turn around. Our pocketbook didn't want to face the tolls.

As I said, nothing happened. We rode...

We ate...

We fueled. Someone adorned my bike with flowers...

We rode some more...

I routed us through the Green Mountains of Vermont. Beautiful, but not nearly as isolated as you might think while riding along. We were enjoying the beautiful trees, river, and flowers without seeing a single settlement. Looking at google maps later revealed a fairly large city right on the other side of the ridge.

We eventually arrived at our destination after 430 miles (690 km). It was a small inn at Franconia Notch of the White Mountains in New Hampshire. (See map above.) So many places were booked up and I found this place advertising on Airbnb.

The inn was wonderful! It was a grand place, beautifully appointed and has a built in, award winning dining room. (Good thing since there is only a stable and air strip within walking distance.) This was something I didn't know about beforehand. We were exhausted. We were hungry. We were not getting on the bikes again in search of food.

The roasted garlic olive oil was fabulous!


Warning! Blatant food porn.

We can't decide on which soup was better. The waiter warned us they were both good. And they were. Oilburner had the minestrone. I had the New England Clam Chowder!!

We both opted for the Filet. Uh....wow. Enough said.

The pool closed at nine. The mosquitos were out in abundance, and being the little blood sucks that they are. I didn't want to sit in the lounge since it was just us. So off to bed for us since we had big plans for the next day.

(Hey!! We rode through four states in one day! New Jersey - New York - Vermont - New Hampshire. What is it with all these "new"??)



Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Day 3 - Meeting Jack the Riepe

So just what is one supposed to do while on the New Jersey shore?  Sight see!  And how does one do that?  Call and request the personalized tour guide services of Jack the Riepe.

Oilburner and I arrived at our hotel around two-ish after navigating the construction zones on the Garden State Parkway. Once we were settled into our room Jack and I touched bases on getting together.

While Jack had been up since 5 am, and driven to and from Pennsylvania that morning to spend time enthralling the MacPac, he was still quite willing to come pick us up and go out for dinner.  We settled on a time that would give us all the chance to relax and cool down.

When the anointed appointed time came, I requested Jack pick us up at the back entrance to the hotel.  I was worried about the paparazzi entourage following him. Either that, or all the women near the lobby would swoon upon seeing his visage.  I was worried of some Beatles or Justin Bieber affect of women sniffing out the star and start throwing their underwear at him. (For his part, I am sure he worried about meeting two deranged, sun-stroked people that might strangle him slowly and throwing him out for whale bait.  Meeting at the back entrance would limit how many people saw us associate with him.)  Truthfully?  The distance between our room and the front doors was about a mile of maze-like hallways.  Where as our room was directly next to the back stairwell.  Two steps to the stairwell, one flight of stairs, and the back door was right there.

When we emerged from the hotel a bright red Ford F-150 was stopped, nosed into our neatly covered bikes.  Jack sat there contemplating the unidentifiable bikes.  I'm sure wondering if they really belonged to us, and if we were on the level.  Despite all of the warning signs we shook hands, made our introductions, and he allowed us to climb into the pickup.

His concession to safety was a heavy wood cane nonchalantly leaning against the front passenger seat.  I'm guessing he was planning on using it as a beating stick if I started going crazy.  (He sure was taking his chances...)

We started towards the "real" Jersey shore, heading to Seaside Heights.  I had to bring up something about New Jersey that had baffled, but impressed, me.  On the main road we had ridden in left turns from the roadway were not allowed.  At intersections, instead of turning left, one had to turn right after the intersection onto a "clover leaf" (also known as elbow or jug handle in NJ) that dumped you onto the cross road.  I found this intriguing and wonder if it cuts down on left turn accidents.  Wondering, as well, if traffic flowed faster without that signal time in the routine.

Crossing over the Thomas A. Mathis Bridge we started swapping experiences of riding over metal "cheese grater" bridges.  Jack's involved a scantily clad woman riding pillion, having to stop for the raising of the bridge.  Mine mundanely regaled my experience yesterday riding through Norfolk, encountering a curve in the rain on one of those horrid things.  He educated me on his cure by riding with the MacPac: they laughed at his trepidation and just rode faster.

We were treated with a great driving tour of Seaside Heights., admiring the architecture, while discovering Jack's favorite house.  Why is it his favorite you ask?  Well, it obviously has something to do with some smoking hot woman.

We ended this portion of the tour in front of Berkeley Fish Market, where we were headed for dinner.  Apparently it is the most expensive place around...  Of course, nothing is too good for Jack.

This is where we learned more of the cane story.  In addition to making a great weapon, it was very hefty and solid, it was a working weapon.  Jack's use of the truck hood, bumper, cane, planter, door handle, support column, and any available waitress wasn't feigned.  (OK, maybe the waitress leaning was a little contrived.)  That cane was a well regarded extension of his arm and it was heavily used thanks to the latest medical problems.  He took it in stride and just used it as an opportunity to solicit a little more help from friendly waitresses.

As the Fish Market is a fairly regular haunt for him we were seated at the best possible table with sticky chairs, horrible views of the parking lot, and a mean waitress that we had to bribe to talk with us.  (Maybe that was another use for the cane, snagging them so they couldn't get away.)  In discussing our dining options Jack learned that we were poor waifs uneducated in the culinary perfection that are Ipswich clams.

We were soon to be instructed.  A bucket of "steamers" was ordered and Oilburner and I began our homage to Jack's instruction: pry the clam open, extract the clam by the faintly phallic appendage called the foot, remove the "sock" from said appendage, dip in clam broth to remove sand, then dredge in butter before devouring this delicacy.

Yum!!

The "foot" was a bit rubbery, or chewy, for my tastes.  Oh, but the rest just melted on your tongue.

Dinner soon arrived.  I believe the waitress only drug his soft shell crab across the parking lot once, to collect a bit of sand and roughage for him to chew on.  He was really turning the charm on, though I didn't once see his battered baby seal look!

Conversation lingered over motorcycle stories tall and short and I was finally able to call him out on his purported snail paced riding capabilities.  With a twinkle in his eye he didn't exactly admit I was right.  Instead he told another tale that just proved my hypothesis. 

Dinner was over much too soon.  And the waitress was genuinely happy to see us on our way.  Out the door.  Away from her station.  We didn't move far though, as we worked our way to standing around his pickup continuing our conversations.  There was a discussion of the BMWMOA rally starting up in a few days time.  We discussed his frustration at having to cancel his attendance and seminars at the rally.  While he had really wanted to attend, so as not to disappoint all his fans (those holding tomatoes as well as pens), his recent medical backslide and associated immobility was preventing it.  I was just happy to be having personalized attention, not having to vie for it amongst a crowd of adoring fans.

We also palavered about dream rides.  Once Jack gets back on his feet (HA! Literally) he is purchasing his dream bike and having the appropriate spider and skulls stenciled on it and taking it across the country.  I would gladly volunteer to accompany him.  But somehow I just don't think I will be able to keep up with his speed, unless I am on some rocket-propelled motorbike.  I believe his thinking is to peg out and never let up.

Unfortunately, we overstayed our welcome and our waitress came out into the parking lot to shoo away the riff raff; accusing us of running off incoming customers.  So we climbed into the truck and turned our attention to more classic New Jersey landmarks along the shore.  Now...growing up in Southern California I am not accustomed to permanently affixed amusement parks.  Amusement parks are those fold up rides and carnival games that come in and set up in the middle of the night, and leave just as quickly.  Leaving candy wrappers blowing in the breeze, getting stuck in the trampled grass. The amusement park along the sea side was complete and authentic to the ones I remember while growing up.  However, these are permanent structures and a large attraction for tourists.  So I sat in wide-eyed wonder as we slowly drove past the boardwalk.  I was enamored with the flashing lights, bells ringing, and sordid carnival goodies.  I was drawn in like a moth to light.  But there was no way Jack could get me to set foot on that boardwalk.  I know about those electric murder-death-kill mosquito zappers that will harm moths too.  I was not going to be sucked in.

(Though I was thoroughly fascinated with the "ski lift" that ran the length of the boardwalk.  Affording people views of their next selection for entertainment, or giving lascivious boys the opportunity to sneak peeks down tank tops or throw spit balls into aforementioned tops.)

day3z3


The sun was setting and we turned back towards the hotel.  Not wanting the conversations to end we raided a Dunkin Donuts for dessert and coffee and continued the talks.  We ranged all over from Bregstein to Canadian Geese to Land's End.  As a final push, Jack was trying to convince us to take a ride into New York on our way out of town in the morning.  To ride those beautiful cliffs over the Hudson that he has written about on more than one occasion.  As much as a yearn to behold this sight for myself, there is no way I am going on a Monday, during a work week, when he ends the directions with "but it has to be done between 11 and 12 o'clock".  Uh-uh, no way!  That is a sight that I will only ever try either following him down those roads so that I don't have to figure out proper turns.  Or when Stephen King's Captain Trips comes to decimate the world and I am one of the few riders remaining.

Jack drops us off at the back of the hotel, quickly speeding away into the darkness.  The clouds are quickly gathering and we will have one heck of a light show that night.  It was then that I realized he had kept me so busy during the evening that I had failed to take a picture.  My camera managed to take one of his legs in the cab of the pickup.  But since it didn't show any garters and hose, nor the cane, I'm not posting it.

SSsoooo....what part is truth and what part is fiction??  The waitress was actually very nice.  She put up with our gruff and scorned the nickname Jack tried to give her.  Though she did shoo us from the parking lot.

Jack, thank you so much for the fantastic evening.  I wish we could have gone back through New Jersey.  I just didn't want to scare the Jersey drivers on the Parkway again.  I hope we can continue our conversations over alcohol and donuts along some shoreline, bike headlights illuminating the ocean soon.

Saturday, July 21, 2012

Day 3 - Salisbury, MD to Toms River, NJ

The last two days were hard days to get us to this point. We had plans in Toms River...

Thankfully we only needed to roll 41 odd miles down the road and we could take a morning break on the Cape Mays-Lewes ferry. The ferry shuttles between Lewes, DE (the first city of the first state) and Cape May, NJ.

We had it on good authority to arrive about 45 minutes before boarding time. This gave us the first place in line for "other" vehicles, passing by people that were alread queued up in the vehicle lanes. They were definitely giving us the stink eye!

The early arrival gave us time to grab something to eat from the cafe, and capture the elusive smooshed penny. Hey, of all things to collect, these are inexpensive and easy to store or showcase, not requiring much room.

Before long we were called back to our vehicles for loading. What do you know...we were the only motorcycles on board.

The 18 mile crossing gives you about 45 minutes to wander the ship, sit and enjoy the breeze, or hang over the edge looking at the waves.

Apparently it is OK to drink on the deck, but nowhere else.

We had always been told that motorcycles where first on, first off. Whoever told us that was full of BUNK!! We were third off! :) But I do agree with the ordering. There wasn't any way we were getting off with that truck in front of us. I'll take third. It was still better than last.

We are now in New Jersey. This is where I have been concerned. We have all heard the stereotypes of Jersey drivers. Now is the time to find out if they are true. That could wait though, while we did a bit of sightseeing. We landed in Cape May. Cape May has been described to me as the jewel of the Jersey shore.

 
 
 
 
 

The architecture is mind blowing!! Victorian architecture abounds. You could spend days walking up and down each street and never see the same thing twice. These places are so intricate it is incredible.

We were also given directions to a second lighthouse on the bay side of the island, along with marshes that are home to nesting osprey. Unfortunately traffic was backed up a couple miles. We couldn't sit in the the sunshine and continue to sweat any longer. We turned north to catch the Garden State Parkway to Toms River and my first appointment... Since I couldn't go to Oregon for the IMBC...I was trying to recreate a portion of it. And it was my night to meet the legendary Jack Riepe.

You will have to wait. Hehe. Though you can see more images on Flickr.

 

Monday, July 16, 2012

Day 2 - Greensboro, NC to Salisbury, MD

Hmmm...the day started out promising. We were on time to depart at 10 am.

Breakfast of champions!
It rapidly went downhill. We were all prepared to schlep the baggage down to the bikes in anticipation of leaving on time when Oilburner discovered he couldn't find his bike key. We tore the room apart, the luggage assunder and even went to see if it was left on the bike. No dice.


So the theme for all you upcoming travelers out there...BRING YOUR SPARE SET OF KEYS!!

There wasn't anything else we could do. They couldn't be found and we couldn't continue to sit there. So hoping against all hope we hit the road and prayed the key would show up in the luggage somewhere.

With our, now, late start this was going to turn into a long day. So we took to the road. Not much else can be said. We played it safe. We followed the highways. We were amassing more time riding in rains. Even had the pleasure of negotiating metal grated bridges slick with rain. (Good thing I didn't have to turn.)

The highlights of the day?

Stopped for fuel and had a couple come up to us and start chatting. They are veteran road travelers and had noticed us on the highway. The husband at full belief that they would catch up with us. And they did. Great couple living in South Carolina, going to DC. We had a great time exchanging stories and laughing. Thank you Bruce!

Rode the Chesapeake Bridge-Tunnel. Oilburner didnot notice the gift shop and pier on the first island, so we didn't stop. I wasn't too disappointed since it was, yep, raining. :) But it was a fun riding on the bridges and submerging into the tunnels. Didn't care for the $12 per motorcycle price tag. But it might be awhile before we make it this way again.

Having fun noticing that due to all of the interstate riding, the stupid little feelers on my tires are still all there, except the area directly down the centerline.



Saturday, July 14, 2012

Day 1 - Atlanta, GA to Greensboro, NC

We did it.  We actually did get out on the road.  Albeit we were nearing an hour behind schedule. Some times, some things, you are just last.  We had both been trying to accomplish real work things on that "last day of work before vacation".  And we did work.  Luckily we both were able to work from home, sparing us the time spent commuting at least.

2012 Trip Day 1


We had been aiming for 3, but our departure time neared the 4 o'clock hour.  Sometimes that is just the way we rolling.  Especially doing the last minute mad dash around the house when you suddenly remember something that you have to have...and then trying to find it.

Atlanta has been seeing some strange weather. For once the rain and thunderstorms are hitting fast and furious in the evenings and overnight.  (Previous years they either hit during daylight hours, wreaking havoc with traffic, or they would ruin a perfectly good weekend, leaving the week days perfect.  You know...when you can't get out to play.)

Another storm was coming in this afternoon and we were trying to get ahead of it.  Yeah.  Right.  16.8 miles (27 km) into the trip and the rain started.  This little spot wasn't too hard a rain. And it cleared up quickly.  It was the next encounter about 50 miles down the road.  This was the hard, drenching, soaking one.  It was too quick, with nowhere to stop and put gear on.  (Though the Harley riders had holed up under an overpass.

Our encounter was the kind that felt like thousands of little needles poking through the mesh jackets into your arms.  The big, fat drops that didn't splatter, but hit you with a vengeance and immediately stuck in that one spot making absolutely certain that it reached through clothing and to skin.  After just a couple of these you could feel the water running down your chest, soaking through the bra and heading to parts farther south.

The rain was so hard all of the vehicles slowed and turned their flashers on.  Visibility was closing in on 75 feet during the worst of it.  Add to that the spray from the road that tires kicked up.  Luckily the drivers were acting sanely and we didn't have any issues.  Though the first chance we had, we got off the road and into a gas station to put the rain gear on.  Yeah.  It was a bit late by now, but the clouds promised more pelting to come.

2012 Trip Day 1
2012 Trip Day 1

About a minute after taking this picture the street sign for the gas station was stuck my lightning.  The lightning/thunder was so intense I actually did scream it started me.  Trite of me.

Nothing eventful happened the remainder of the day.  We donned the gear and stayed [relatively] dry through subsequent showers.  We arrived at the hotel 5 minutes before 10.

Stats:
Miles ridden 322.8 (According to the odometer.  The GPS said something entirely different.  :(  )
Time on the road: 6 hours



Tracking Number

Everything comes with tracking numbers these days.  Apparently some motorbike pilots are the same way.

We hit the road yesterday.  And hit it hard.  Unfortunately the weather hit back.  :)  I will try to post more tonight.  But you can see a few pictures on Flickr.

You can also keep dibs on our whereabouts by looking at the SPOT map.  Just below the blog header picture is clickable text "Track Me".  Click it.  :)

For those accessing through a reader....here is the link.

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Procrastination...

How does the saying going? "If it weren't for the last minute nothing would get done?"

So okay, the concept of organizing and packing is taking place slightly early. In preparation, as it were. But some things have woefully been left to the last minute. It is amazing how many things you think of that you want or need only when the last minute comes along.

Granted, a major service isn't quite something that is forgotten about. We saw it coming on the horizon. Oilburner wanted to get them out of the way two weeks ago. I wanted to hold off a week to try and get a few more miles on the clock. Sure a service is needed. But if I can get it 500 miles early instead of 1200... Unfortunately with my illness and the 108F/43C temperatures the miles didn't quite rack up the way I would have liked. So the GS is 900 miles early and the RT is 1200.

Oilburner really wanted our regular mechanics to take on this service and not leave it to another dealer along the road. So our shop is being gracious and squeezing us in, even though the shop is full and some mechanics are sick. They originally said to drop them off today and they would have them for us by Friday. When we explained the timeframe they offered to get them back to us tomorrow.

Little did they know what they were getting into.

I don't know about the RT. The GS will require brake fluid change, valve check, final drive fluid change, gear box fluid change, and regular ol' oil change. Sshhhooottttt. A couple weeks ago the GS went through an astounding amount of oil on a very long, hot, pushed ride. Oilburner was concerned because his bike hasn't used any oil in 12,000 miles. How could the GS be such a lemon that it used half a quart in 356 miles (573 km)? So he was considering requesting a leak and compression check during this service. However, in the last 600 miles (965 km) she hasn't been using any. So we will keep our eyes on it.

I don't think the RT requires anything special. The only non-standard issue to assess is a stalling at take off from idle. (Guess my GS isn't quite the damn lemon someone thinks it is. Hehehe)

So there really wasnt anything too out of the ordinary here...

 

until...

 

...someone started worrying about the rear tire on the GS. The bike is currently wearing the Metzler Tourance tires that came with it. With only 5,100 miles (8200 km) the rear tire has decidedly flat topped. I guess she has seen more highway than I would like. :(

Mind you, she could probably make it to Maine on the tire. There is decent tread left, but with at least 1000 miles (1609 km) of interstates ahead of us, history shows us it would probably be gone by Maine.

So what do you do? Do you replace on the road? Or just replace now so that you don't have to worry about finding a tire and fitting it into the schedule on the road? I understand if you are definitely putting enough miles on during a road trip that you have to change the shoes mid-trip no matter what. But this instance was squeezing another 1000 miles out, and then try to find an unusual tire.

Yesterday I started calling around just to see about availability of the tire locally. Hmmm...none to be had. I was leaning towards just making an appointment with the BMW dealer in Maine and have them get a tire in, in advance. But we also decided to see what our dealer might have. They have surprised us in the past.

Yep. They just made more work for themselves today. They had the stock Tourance available. They might even have had the Anakee. The problem was that they brought out the Heidenau... It was love at first sight for Oilburner.

We had to sit there and discuss economics versus practicality with everyone! Economically we should just put the rear Tourance on. Practically we should put the Tourance on since it is a street tire and will have less road noise.

Since when did economics OR practicality EVER mean a thing to us?!? At one time or another down the road those Heidenau's were going on that bike. It might as well be now. As one guy said, "They are sexy!". I know that I've been drooling over them since before I even had the GS. One gentlemen said that his experiences with them have been great, offering great traction in rain in the [paved] twisties, even being quieter than street tires. Who am I to argue with that experience? It wasn't like I was going to listen to the truth anyways. ;) Others chimed in that the longevity of the tire rivals the Tourance.

You can probably guess the outcome. :)

In addition to impulse tire purchases, we have also been fitted for ear plugs. I have tiny ears that don't tolerate foreign objects happily. I can't wear ear buds without severe pain within 30 minutes. The foam ear plugs are out. Literally. They won't even stay in my ears. Hoping that the ear plugs will reduce the wind noise and associated fatigue that it can cause, I pushed for an appointment last Friday.

It is a vicious cycle outfitting ourselves and motorbikes. Where's that winning lottery ticket??